New Beauty magazine has announced its “100 Award Winning Products” as voted on by readers, experts and editors in the Winter/Spring 2013 issue. This is similar to the magazine’s Winter/Spring 2012 issue on the “100 Best Products of the Year.” As I flipped through the pages of the 2013 issue, I noted how much my view on what should be considered “the best” or “award winning” has been irrevocably altered since I became a contributor to TIA.
As an avid follower of TIA for many years, it was always the one place where I knew I could obtain uncompromised guidance on health and beauty. I often wondered why beauty magazines rarely mentioned the gems that TIA had discovered (e.g. YBF Correct), opting instead to largely promote brand name products. While there are some excellent brand name products out there (and I have certainly used them), there are many to be found amongst smaller niche brands.
As for my take on New Beauty’s 2013 award winners; overall, there’s not much overlap. Although, I haven’t allowed this to take away from several excellent editorial insights found in the pages of New Beauty. Below are a few brief thoughts on the 2013 New Beauty Award winners.
Makeup: Best Shiny Lip Gloss – Chanel Glossimer ($29.50)
A friend turned me on to this gloss, and I was sure to read reviews of it before dropping $29.50 for a lip gloss. The highly pigmented yet sheer shades are deceiving in the tube, so you really need to try them on. Incredibly, there are over 30 shades along with a few limited-edition colors, so there is something for everyone. I’m not keen on shimmer in lip gloss (generally best for the 25 and younger crowd), but this gloss has just the right amount of sparkle that renders a perfect beautiful shine.
Skin: At-home Chemical Peel – Dr. Dennis Gross Extra Strength Alpha Beta Peel ($85)
I’ve used these peel pads for years and while they cannot replace a professional peel, they are excellent for extending the results of professional peels. Regular use of this proprietary blend of alpha-beta hydroxy acids yields noticeable results over time! I often stop using them while testing certain products but I always go back to them whenever I need to get back that inner glow. The extra-strength contains a higher concentration of alpha-beta acids (plus a couple of boosters) over the Original peel pads. If you’ve never used these before or if you have sensitive skin, I’d recommend starting with the Original peel pads and (only if needed) slowly graduating to the extra-strength.
Skin: Best Sunscreen – Clé de Peau Beauté Gentle Protective Emulsion SPF 20 ($130)
It shocks me that a sunscreen worth $130 only provides SPF 20, yet it is worthy of an award in this critical category (see this TIA article for information on sunscreens). The American Academy of Dermatology recommends an SPF of 30 or greater as does the Melanoma Foundation and Sunprotection.net. Even New Beauty notes (just underneath this recommendation) that they are “partial to sunscreen that hits the 30 mark.” While the Gentle Protective Emulsion is broad spectrum and indicates the Protection Grade of UVA as PA +++, the highest UVA protection factor, it is still lacking on the SPF front as it filters less than 97% of UVB rays. New Beauty advises using this sunscreen under makeup, which leave many under the impression that applying makeup with SPF 15 over the sunscreen will bring them to a combined SPF of 35%. However, it’s been established that SPF values cannot be added. Therefore, if you apply a sunscreen of 8 and then one of 12, you will not have the protection of an SPF 20. You will only be getting the protection of an SPF 12.
Anti-aging: SkinCeuticals Anti-Aging Skin Care System ($245)
The evidence on the effectiveness of Skinceuticals CE Ferulic keeps accumulating! Recent findings on sun damage from infrared rays (IR) reiterate the importance of an effective antioxidant as sunscreens do not protect skin from IR. The researcher behind the IRA findings noted “ascorbic acid as the gold standard among antioxidants. Its pH must be acidic (below 3.5) and in concentrations that are significant (above 10%) to be effective against the UV and IR damage.” Skinceuticals CE Ferulic contains 15% L-ascorbic acid at a pH that effectively penetrates skin with the science to back it up! This anti-aging system also includes a treatment (Marta had mixed feelings on the A.G.E Interrupter) that protects against glycation as well as a PABA, oil and fragrance-free, broad spectrum sunscreen with SPF 30.
Anti-aging: Revive Moisturizing Renewal Cream ($175)
Revive is a high-end (note price tag) skincare line that uses glycolic acid (close to 10%) as its main active, which results in a marked tingling – some say burning – sensation upon application. Further, the product has a pH of 3.3, which borders on medical grade as opposed to OTC. The reviews are a mixed bag on this cream. The formulation does include epidermal growth factors (EGF), but as Marta noted in her initial review, the EGF is halfway down the list. She later rejected it due to lack of results. There are some excellent antioxidants, but since this is packaged in a jar, I can’t attest to the stability or effectiveness of those ingredients once the jar is opened. Packaging is critical to maintaining product integrity (if you’re going to drop this many Benjamins, you’d think the packaging would be the best available on the market). Coincidentally, a friend asked me about this very product a few months back. My response was that if she wanted a high glycolic product, she was likely better off with medical grade M.D. Forte facial creams ($45-$60), containing 15%-30% glycolic compound. The creams are pH balanced yet still effective due to a proprietary time released mechanism that is much less irritating to skin.
Spa: Anti-aging Spa Brand: Elemis
The Elemis papaya enzyme peel impressed a TIA reviewer and Marta found the Elemis Power Booster Facial to deliver on its promise. I’ve had the Elemis Tri-enzyme facial and my skin was absolutely glowing, so I purchased the Tri-enzyme resurfacing mask to use at home. Elemis products and treatments are extremely effective considering they are not medical grade and the facials are a real treat if you care to indulge in non-medi-spa treatments.
Ingredients for Chanel Glossimer Lip Gloss: C10-30 cholesterol/Lanosterol esters polybutene, Diisostearyl Malate, Calcium Sodium Borosilicate, Silica Dimethyl Silylate, Silica, Propylparaben, Tin Oxide, Peg 8, Tocopherol, Ascorbyl Palmitate, Ascorbic acid, Citric acid [+/- (may contain) ci 15850 (red 6, red 7 lake) Ci15985 ( Yellow 6 Lake) Ci 17200 (Red 33 Lake) Ci 19140 (Yellow 5 lake) Ci 42090 ((Blue 1 Lake) Ci 45410 (Red 28 Lake) Ci 75470 (Carmine) Ci 77163 (Bismuth Oxychloride) Ci 77491, Ci 77492, Ci 77499 (Iron Oxidies) Ci 77742 (Manganese Violet) Ci 77891 (Titanium Dioxide) Mica]
Ingredients for Dr. Dennis Gross Extra Strength Alpha Beta Peel: Extra Strength Step 1 Ingredients: Water, Alcohol Denat., Glycolic Acid, Hamamelis Virginiana (Witch Hazel) Leaf Extract, Potassium Hydroxide, Salicylic Acid, Polysorbate 20, Citric Acid, Lactic Acid, Malic Acid, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Achillea Millefolium Extract, Chamomilla Recutita (Matricaria) Flower Extract, Soy Isoflavones, Disodium EDTA, Copper PCA, Zinc PCA, Fragrance, Sodium Benzoate; Extra Strength Step 2 Ingredients: Water, Sodium Bicarbonate, Ascorbic Acid, Ascorbyl Palmitate, Retinyl Palmitate, Retinol, Tocopheryl Acetate, Resveratrol, Ubiquinone, Achillea Millefolium Extract, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Soy Isoflavones,Phospholipids, Copper PCA, Sodium PCA, Zinc PCA, Simethicone, Octoxynol-9, Tetrasodium EDTA, Sodium Benzoate, Phenoxyethanol
Ingredients for Clé de Peau Beauté Gentle Protective Emulsion SPF 20: (Active) Ensulizole 1.5%, Octinoxate 4.9%, Octocrylene 3.0%, Oxybenzone 1.0%; (Inactive) Water, Alcohol, Dipropylene Glycol, Glycerin, Xylitol, Dimethicone, Isododecane, Triethylhexanoin, Hydrogenated Polydecene, Peg-5 Glyceryl Stearate, Isostearic acid, Silica, Diphenylsiloxy Phenyl trimethicone, Xanthan gum, Peg/PPG-17/4 Dimethyl Ether, Phytosteryl Macadamiate, Tocopheryl Acetate, Glycyl Glycine, Crataegus Monogina Flower Extract, Serine, 2-o-Ethyl Ascorbic acid, Sodium Acetylated Hyaluronate, Polyquaternium-51, Saxifraga Sarmentosa Extract, Uncaria Gambir Extract, Ginkgo Biloba Leaf Extract, Rosa Roxburghii Fruit Extract, Hydrolyzed Conchiolin Protein, Hypericum Erectum Extract, Hydrolyzed Silk, Bupleurum Falcatum Root Extract, Coix Lacryma-jobi (Job's Tears) Seed Extract, Sodium Magnesium Silicate, Glyceryl Stearate Se, Behenic acid, Stearic acid, Behenyl Alcohol, Sodium Hydroxide, Batyl Alcohol, Peg-30 Soy Sterol, Disodium Edta, Cellulose Gum, Sodium Metaphosphate, Butylene Glycol, BHT, Tocopherol, Phenoxyethanol, Fragrance
Ingredients for Skinceuticals Anti-Aging Skin Care System: CE Ferulic Ingredients: Water, Ethoxydiglycol, 15% L-Ascorbic Acid, Propylene Glycol, Glycerin, Laureth-23, 1% Alpha Tocopherol, Phenoxyethanol, Triethanolamine, 0.5% Ferulic Acid, Panthenol, Sodium Hyaluronate; A.G.E Interrupter Ingredients: Aqua/Water, Propylene Glycol, Dimethicone, Hydroxypropyl Tetrahydropyrantriol, Cyclohexasiloxane, Isohexadecane, Glycerin, Synthetic Wax, Dimethicone/Peg-10/15 Crosspolymer, Aluminum Starch Octenylsuccinate, Phenoxyethanol, CI 77163/Bismuth Oxychloride, Magnesium Sulfate, Salicyloyl Phytosphingosine, Acrylates Copolymer, Vaccinium Myrtillus Extract, Methylparaben, Ethylparaben, Disodium EDTA, Parfum/Fragrance, Butylphenyl Methylpropional, Coumarin
Ingredients for Revive Moisturizing Renewal Cream: Water, Diisopropyl Dimer Dilinoleate, Dicaprylyl Maleate, Glycolic Acid, Cyclomethicone, Glycerin, Helianthus Annuus (Hybrid Sunflower) Oil, Glyceryl Stearate, Dea-Cetyl Phosphate, Cetyl Alcohol, Butylene Glycol, Isostearic Acid, Stearic Acid, Sodium Hydroxide, Squalane, Sclerotium Gum, EGF (Epidermal Growth Factor), Persea Gratissima (Avocado) Oil Unsaponifiables, Glycolipids, Sodium Hyaluronate, Bisabolol, Tocopheryl Acetate, Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter), Sodium PCA, Allantoin, Dimethicone, Disodium EDTA, Diazolidinyl Urea, Methylparaben, Propylparaben, Limonene, Linalool, Citrus Aurantium Dulcis (Orange) Oil
Ingredients for Elemis Papaya Enzyme Peel: Water (Aqua), Propylene Glycol, Octyldodecanol, Glyceryl Stearate SE, Cetearyl Alcohol, Glycerin, Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil, Ananas Sativus (Pineapple) Fruit Extract, Papain, Xanthan Gum, Milk Protein (Lactis Proteinum), Fucus Vesiculosus Extract (Brown Algae), Porphyridium Cruentum Extract, Maltodextrin, Fragrance (Parfum), Tocopherol, Dichlorobenzyl Alcohol, Methylparaben, 2-Bromo-2-Nitropropane-1,3-Diol, Propylparaben, Disodium EDTA, Yellow 6 (CI 15985), Cinnamyl Alcohol, Citronellol, Geraniol